RESEARCH
Black Barbershops in Focus is interested in how barbershops regularly bring diverse black publics together through the ritualised routine of black hair care/styling. It focuses on how these seemingly unremarkable places are generative spaces that nourish black social life.
Through participant observations, interviews with barbers and clients, and artistic interpretations of the shop floor, the research explores how these protected racialised spaces foster social networks and sustain diverse black cultures and communities.
Located in iconic black historic neighbourhoods, including Brixton, South London, the project is attentive to where these small black-owned businesses are located, in neighbourhoods that are experiencing rapid urban renewal and racialised gentrification.
‘It's always been a special place to me. Coming here… is like a remedy to the madness outside… it's like an escape from the real world.’ Interview with customer Marvin, 2023
‘It's always been a special place to me. Coming here… is like a remedy to the madness outside… it's like an escape from the real world.’ Interview with customer Marvin, 2023
By zooming in on the stories and memories shared on the shopfloor, the project shines a light on how ‘neighbourhood’ ‘community’ and ‘locality’ are experienced and understood amongst local black residents. And, importantly, it asks urgent questions about the permanency of independent small black businesses.
As sites for uncensored debate, counsel, creativity, relaxation, and entrepreneurship, the findings show that barbershops are key neighbourhood resources that provide far more than just a haircut.
An integral component of the project was the community pop-up exhibition held in the summer of 2023. Hosted in the basement of a South London barbershop, the exhibition featured original artworks by local collaborating artist Habiba Nabisubi. The exhibition was open to the public free of charge throughout June and July.
From the summer of 2023 Karis has been supporting Lambeth Council with their ongoing pop-up barbershop intervention based in Lambeth schools to address black boy’s mental health and wellbeing using a cognitive behavioural approach.
To date, the research has been funded through internal impact support funds from De Montfort University, and now City, University of London. Karis is currently exploring external funding applications to expand the research.
‘They say its therapeutic, it’s not really a masculine word, but it is a therapeutic situation. It’s probably the only time that… a man would stop… it's opportunities to relax, but actively being able to. I will fall asleep in the chair’.
Interview with customer Joshua, 2023
‘I love to cut the hair and see the contrast within the hair cut from the skin to the dark to the lighter shades... I’m an art man, I see this thing as art… if you don't learn the techniques of barbering, you will find it really difficult… how to manoeuvre the clipper, stuff like that, takes patience.’
Excerpt from interview with Damian the barber, 2022